LaColombe: Biscuits And Gravy, $12

By Glen Macnow

LaColombe
1335 Frankford Ave., Philadelphia

Coffee power hitter Todd Carmichael has hit another home run with this Fishtown café-bakery-rum distillery where, let's be honest, every person in the room was cooler than I (this is not unusual). The specialty, of course, is coffee. But the baked items make for a pretty good breakfast or lunch.

We got the biscuits and gravy, which come in heavy cast iron skillet. It's a full pan – two flaky biscuits, two sunny side ups, melted cheddar, white gravy chives and, of course, bacon. Pretty perfectly executed bacon, savory and crisp and not too fatty. The gravy, we thought, could have used a touch more seasoning. But, hey, that's a minor quibble.

All in all, an outstanding place. Next time we try the shrimp and grits.

Score: 83/100