By Glen Macnow

Score: 6.7
Price: $24. This is not a misprint.
Location: The Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Logan Square.

By far the most expensive burger we had during this venture, so we took the head honcho of WIP and made put him this lunch on his expense account. I know we’re paying a bit extra for excellent service (and it was) and a nice view of the fountain at Logan Circle. But 24 bucks?? Sheesh. At that price, the burger should be wrapped in gold leaf and come with its own personal trainer to help me work off the pounds I’ve gained in the past month.

“The Burger” as it’s simply called on the menu, is a huge concoction of prime sirloin, clothbound cheddar (yeah, we’re not sure what that means either), smoked bacon, dill pickle, iceberg slaw and secret sauce on a brioche roll. By the way, if we’ve learned one thing during this project it’s that the words “secret sauce” can generally be translated into “Thousand Island dressing.”

Anyway, I can’t argue with the high-end quality of the ingredients. Great meat, tangy cheese, nicely cooked, lightly seasoned. But this was death by conspicuous consumption. Piled high with unnecessary and runny coleslaw, stuffed with pickles and slathered with that orange sauce, the burger was dripping liquid by our second bite. If we’d been wearing a $179 Brooks Brothers oxford shirt rather than our Kmart special, we’d have asked the manager to pay for the dry-cleaning. Alas, another fine piece of meat brought down by the desire to jazz it up.

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