Getaway Guide: St. Andrews
You don't have to be a scratch golfer to be fascinated by the Middle Ages splendor of St. Andrews on the rugged North Sea coast of Scotland. Anyone who followed the British Open last week was also captivated by the 12th century surroundings and stately ruins of a historic castle and cathedral, a world renowned university that was founded over 600 years ago and of course, the ghost of Mary, Queen of Scots who kept an apartment here. But if golf is your game, St. Andrews must be on the bucket list. If you're consumed with history and fantasy, you have something in common with the stick-and-ball crowd. So, what's here and how do you become a part of it? Follow me.
GOLF
The reason most pilgrims journey to St. Andrews is to play the famous courses including the one that gave life to the game - the Old Course. On one side is St. Andrews Bay and the North Sea, on the other, a vibrant, but pristine town that looks much like it did when Mary walked the cobblestone streets. The city holds 7 golf courses and the imposing building that is home to the former world arbiter of golf's rules and regulations - The Royal and Ancient Golf Club. (The world that is, with the exception of the United States and Mexico). The clubhouse overlooks the first tee and is steps away from the 18th. Non-golfing visitors are constantly seen along the sidelines watching the action at start and finish. They can even rent a putter and balls to sink a few on the practice green.
If you're a serious golfer and want to play a round on the Old Course, it is necessary to plan ahead. Tee times are limited and the demand is high. You can find specifics on line at: www.standrews.com/Book-Online . However, most golfers have already consulted a local broker to make the arrangements and will play a couple of courses, hoping that the coveted tee times will include the Old Course. The best bet in lining up a broker is to have your hotel operator or concierge do that at the same time you make lodging arrangements.
If you have the time, try to spend at least one day at a course out-of-town. County Fife which includes and surrounds St. Andrews has nearly 50 of them. I found the St. Andrews Bay Club www.standrewsbay.com/ to be an extremely well run luxury hotel with all amenities and highly regarded course where you can combine lodging and golf in a dynamic seaside setting.
LODGING
During 5 visits to St. Andrews, we chose a small hotel on the Scores, a promenade that lets you stroll from the castle to the Royal and Ancient with a stop at St. Andrews Aquarium.
RUSSELL HOTEL
26 The Scores
St. Andrews, Fife
Scotland
www.russellhotelstandrews.co.uk/
Rooms here are bright and airy with private baths and most rooms have unobstructed views of the bay and North Sea. The hotel boasts a commendable restaurant and golfer oriented pub. A good spot to sample a variety of single malt whiskeys. Golf packages are available and lodging rates are reasonable.
ST ANDREWS BAY CLUB
St. Andrews, Fife
Scotland
www.standrewsbay.com/
This major resort about 10 minutes from St. Andrews is operated by the Fairmont Hotel Group that owns and manages an international grouping of luxury hotels. In addition to the golf course, the resort holds an ultra-modern fitness club, fine restaurants and bars with a lobby lounge that follows British tradition in serving afternoon tea. Try it, you'll like it.
MACDONALD RUSACKS HOTEL
Pilmour Links
St. Andrews, Fife
Scotland
www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/
Another luxury hotel with an enviable location alongside the Old Course and within sight of the iconic Swilcan Bridge, where visitors to the course absolutely have to take a selfie. The venerable old golfing hotel offers tee time package, fine dining and all the amenities expected at a British institution. Luxury prices come with it.
St. Andrews and the surrounding area have many hotels, inns, guest houses, even rental apartments. Find them at: www.visitstandrews.com/
EAT AND DRINK
The options for sipping and supping seem to be unlimited in St. Andrews. Here are a few of my favorites.
DUVEGAN'S
www.dunvegan-hotel.com/lounge.html/
A true golfer pub, Dunvegan's is alive any time of day or night and you never know what pro or stars will be occupying space at the bar. A great collection of photos and memorabilia.
WEST PORT BAR AND KITCHEN
120 South Street
https://www.facebook.com/westportbk/
The West Port is a classic pub with a diverse crowd. It's popular with university students and faculty. Visitors enjoy the outdoor garden, familiar menu and reasonable (for St. Andrews) pricing. Happy hour here includes two-for-one beer. But you have to take both at the same time.
Seafood Restaurant
Bruce Embarkment
One of the best views in St. Andrews, the Seafood Restaurant overlooks the North Sea and is just steps from the Aquarium. St. Andrews still has an active, but downsized fishing fleet, so expect a fresh dinner.
GETTING THERE
A flight to Edinburgh and then take a train to Leuchars. From there it's a ten minute cab ride to St. Andrews.
