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Review: Dog And Bull

By Glen Macnow

Score: 7.7
Price: A very fair $10 for the Cheddar Ale Bacon Burger
Location: 810 Bristol Pike, Croydon

Go to Croydon, go to Croydon, the followers of the Great Burger Hunt kept telling me. There is a treasure there, they said. Worth the drive. So we did it – 26.2 miles from my home (same as a marathon, coincidentally), one hour and change to Dog and Bull, where the burger was . . . . well worth the drive!

It's a huge hand-formed patty, perfectly cooked outside and in, seasoned – but lightly enough that the Grade A beef can speak for itself. Our Cheddar Ale Bacon Burger came adorned with crispy fried onions, the kind people put on those infernal holiday-season green bean casseroles, only a lot tastier. Nice touch. Different.

My only quibble here would be the roll, which was a boring white bread. Hey, burger joints have stepped up with brioche and challah rolls and all kinds of interesting bread pairings. Dog and Bull, with a little more interesting roll, might have cracked the top five in this contest. As it is, it was well worth the trip to Croydon.

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