Getaway Guide To New York's Chelsea
There's nothing like waking up in Manhattan as the morning power walkers are deftly dodging each other on the streets of Chelsea, stopping for a fresh French baguette, a cup of robust coffee at an outdoor cafe or picking up lunch-to-go at celebrity chef Mario Batali's dazzling Eataly. The Chelsea neighborhood of New York, once the gritty waterfront home of meatpackers and railway barges has been transformed into a scenic recreation center on the Hudson River combined with a dynamic restaurant and bar scene as the neighborhood migrates eastward to 5th Avenue and a little beyond. For all its buzz, prices in Chelsea haven't gone stratospheric and hotels are the most reasonable, this close to mid-town. So, follow along on our recent meanderings through a 19th century neighborhood that has embraced 21st century life. -- Jay Lloyd.
TO-DO
CHELSEA PIERS
23rd Street and Hudson River Park
Think of an indoor sport and some outdoor exertions and you'll be drawn to Chelsea Piers. They stab into the Hudson alongside the expansive Hudson River Park, an impressive waterfront and greenery patch of Manhattan. At the Piers you can take a day cruise, drive some golf balls, box, play basketball and swing away in a batting cage. You get the idea. It's a gem of a facility for New Yorkers and visitors, alike
At the adjoining park you'll find a throwback carousel that's a big hit with the kids and a picturesque walk or sunbathing on the lush slopes. And there's a restaurant and bar complex rooted in nautical history. More on that in the web page equivalent of a minute.
THE HIGH LINE
Just below 12th Street to 34th between 10th and 12 Avenues
The innovative High Line that slices through Chelsea is the classic definition of the word "re-purposing". It involved the transformation of an abandoned elevated railway line to a plant and floral lined walkway with dynamic overhead views of the Hudson River and the iconic Manhattan skyline. It was the inspiration for the planned Philadelphia Reading Viaduct Park. It is a mile-and-a-half long trail in the sky with frequent music and food events, botanical gardens and a Mecca for walkers. We generally access the High Line at 14th Street near 10th Avenue, just over a block away from Chelsea Market, a New York sister to Philly's Reading Terminal Market.
CHELSEA MARKET
Between 15th and 16th Streets and 9th Avenue
You can go from food to fashion here, but like the Reading Terminal Market, Chelsea Market is overwhelmingly about food with a restaurant selection that includes some of New York's best including a pair of imports from Philadelphia. Buddakan, a Stephen Starr entry and Dizengoff have impressively dropped anchor at Chelsea Market along with Iron Chef Morimoto. One of my favorites here is the Lobster Place, primarily a retail seafood emporium that offers up some of the best pickled herring in Gotham. The eateries are a global gastronomic smorgasbord. Your whole gang can separate, pick up their favorite flavors and join up at a table in the market's common areas.
SIP AND SUP AWAY FROM THE RIVER
The extended Chelsea neighborhood is awash in bars and eateries. Let's narrow it down to those Mary and I sampled last week beyond Chelsea Market. From our digs at 24th Street near 6th Avenue it was a short walk to Maison Kayser. Indoors or out, it's Paris on Broadway. The baguette can't be beat. My favorite lunch stop was a railroad barge on the river at Hudson River Park.
Tied alongside is the vivid, red hulled Frying Pan Lightship. The Frying Pan with spectacular river views is a seafood pub grub oriented restaurant and bar with a lively Happy Hour crowd. Crab cakes combine sweet lump crab with a spicy pop. Pair it with a Chesapeake seasoned shrimp boil and a craft brew. You may not want to leave. Before-dinner drinks were quaffed at Markt, a tranplant from Belgium. If it's Belgian, you can count on the brews and an old country helping of mussels for a shared Happy Hour appetizer. Outdoor seating is a bonus.
Then on to dinner at Boqueria, a Chelsea tapas eatery with high top tables and a young professional crowd, noshing on bacon wrapped dates, pickled anchovies or garlicky shrimp and a wave of Catalan inspired small plates. If you have a deeper craving, Boqueria, named for a Barcelona public market serves up a dynamite seafood paella. There's more -- much more, but save some room for another visit.
STAY
From Hiltons to Holiday Inns, small chains and independents, Chelsea has a respectable number of good overnight stops at under $200. For this trip our digs were in the Hampton Inn at 24th Street just west of 6th Avenue. Ideal location, great service, breakfast included and a roadie bag on departure.
GETTING AROUND
The subway stop at 23rd Street and 6th Avenue is an ideal hub. It's a stop for the F and M lines and for the PATH trains to and from New Jersey. At street level, the cross-town M23 bus on 23rd street runs east and west through Chelsea to Hudson River Park, Chelsea Piers and the High Line.
Enoy!
