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Getaway Guide To Columbus And The Virgins

With Columbus Day on the horizon, we tend to focus on the Admiral's first voyage - the one in which he originally hoped to enrich himself and his family while throwing a few coins to Isabella, the Queen. But Columbus made four voyages to the Caribbean under the Spanish flag. It was the second that gave us some of our most popular wintertime getaway destinations, The Virgin Islands. It was Columbus who gave them their collective European name as he sailed and explored along the shores of Virgin Gorda, Tortola, Peter Island, Norman Island, St. Thomas and on to Puerto Rico. By the way, he named them for Saint Ursula and the 11,000 seagoing virgins. Don't ask. It's a long story. For now, let's travel in the 1493 wake of Christopher Columbus. – Jay Lloyd

Leaving St. Thomas
(photo by Richard Maloney)

ST. THOMAS, U.S.V.I.

www.visitusvi.com/stthomas/homepage

St. Thomas was my home for two years and is the most convenient gateway to the entire Virgin Island chain. Since it's American territory, there's no customs and immigration clearance for U.S. citizens. But do bring a passport. You'll want to venture to the nearby British Virgins. The downside is that there are only a few non-stop flights from Philadelphia. More with connections in Puerto Rico. Here's a thought or two on where to stay, play and eat. The east end is the best bet. Saphire Bay has a number of resorts with wonderful beaches and it's convenient to ferries that will zip you to St. John, St. Croix or the British Islands. Off-property restaurants include Molly Malone's owned by Frank Brittingham of Lafayette Hill fame. If cruisin's your thing, there's a first class marina where you can charter a variety of boats.

Caneel Bay
(photo by Richard Maloney)

ST. JOHN

www.visitusvi.com/stjohn/homepage

We can thank the Rockefeller family for spearheading the preservation of St. John as a world class natural aquarium. It is home to a unique underwater National Park that draws divers from around the globe to explore the coral reefs and swim among a colorful population of tropical sea-life. Caneel Bay is the prominent Resort. Wherever you stay, try to make at least one brunch at Caneel. For a fun side-trip to the laid back life here, head to the opposite end of the island for a drink with the locals at Skinny Legs bar in Coral Bar.

Tortola
(photo by Jay Lloyd)

TORTOLA, BRITISH V.I.

www.bvitourism.com/tortola

The best way to see the British Virgin Islands starting with Tortola, the largest is by charter boat. Major charter companies are based here including Moorings and Sunsail. You can ferry over from St. Thomas or start your getaway here with a connecting flight from Philadelphia via Puerto Rico. You'll have to clear customs and immigration on arrival. After that you can freely travel throughout the British Islands until you leave for U.S. territory or the mainland. If you stay overnight, Cane Garden Bay is an easy-going spot. It offers beaches, lodging and a couple of good restaurants including my favorite, Myett's, serving up warm water lobsters. Tiki bars almost touch the water's edge and there's a convenient mooring field for your chartered boat. If time permits before sailing off to your next stop on the Columbus trail, pay a visit to the Pusser's Rum store at Soper's Hole. It once supplied the Royal Navy before the Navy went dry.

Top of Baths
(photo by Richard Maloney)

VIRGIN GORDA

www.bvitourism.com/virgin-gorda

Columbus, viewing the island from the sea thought it looked like a reclining fat virgin. The name stuck. The best way to reach this fascinating island is aboard your own chartered boat. Tie up at Spanish Town, the main village or at the Bitter End Yacht Club. Most sailors arriving here make it a point to stop at the Baths, a jumble of boulders strewn about and rising up a hill, surrounding picturesque Grottos. Moor offshore and dinghy to within a few yards of the beach or swim. If you have to pick one restaurant, make it the Top of the Baths. The panorama from the patio eatery and bar takes in most of the U.S. and British Islands. No boat - get here by ferry from Tortola. Ferries do run from St. Thomas but on a limited schedule.

Foxy
(Photo by Steve Butler)

Other islands to enjoy in the Virgin Island chain, explored by Columbus are JOST VAN DYKE, home of Foxy's famous bar. Or head for PETER ISLAND with small cottage colonies. Arriving here by private or charter boat, many sailors stop for lunch and then move on to NORMAN ISLAND, believed to be the setting for Robert Louis Stevenson's classic Treasure Island. It' s a privately owned island, but there's a mooring field in the harbor (the bight) and a popular floating bar, the William Thornton, affectionately known as the "Willey T".

Plan your winter trip now. If it includes a chartered sailboat, they are available in sizes that will accommodate your group with or without skipper and crew. If you have sailing experience, it becomes much more reasonable, since you become the skipper and your sailing friends are the crew.

Charter Boat
(Photo by Jay Lloyd)

Charter operations include:

MOORINGS on Tortola at: www.moorings.com/?gclid=CMLQ-_jFq8gCFYuRHwodr4YI8Q

SUNSAIL on Tortola at: www.sunsail.com/yacht-charter/destinations/caribbean/british-virgin-islands/tortola?gclid=CPaArZrGq8gCFYiQHwodGKwGMg

CYOA CHARTERS on St. Thomas at: http://cyoacharters.com/

The boats will be fully equipped and they have galleys for cooking, all cookware and utensils, linens, safety and navigational equipment.

Columbus never had it this good.

 

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