Getaway Guide To A Ten Buck Fall Cruise
"Whenever it's a damp, drizzly November in my soul...", Herman Melville wrote of his need to go to sea. Now, that may be a bit extreme, but with the recent weekend under clouds and drizzle while at the shore, I found that a voyage on the Cape May - Lewes, Delaware Ferry filled the need to ship out and kiss off the weather. Half-hour after casting off, the sun came out to blaze on a vista of large tankers and cargo ships, fishermen, sailing yachts and a shoreward view of the New Jersey Cape and Delaware's Harbor of Refuge. An hour-and-a-half voyage for ten bucks - can't beat it. Here's how, where and what to do when you get there. -- Jay Lloyd
CAPE MAY - LEWES FERRY
It's the closest you'll get to a cruise experience during a getaway to the Jersey shore. The ferries are multi-deck, stable ships with comfortable airline type seating indoors and window views. Outdoors you have relaxing deck benches that let you ease back, watch the world go by and catch some rays.
Or climb to the observation bridge wing on the upper deck to get a binocular-eye view of the bay and shorelines. There are bars and food sections, arcade games, even a mid-October sunset wine cruise. We decided not to take the car along, but just go as foot passengers and catch a shuttle to town on the Delaware side. The ferry tab was $18 roundtrip for adults, $9 for kids and $14 for seniors. Oct. 2nd was the last run till summer for the shuttle service but cabs are readily available. As you approach the terminal, just call Shamrock Taxis at: 302.360.8360. They'll meet you at the dock.
WHAT TO VISIT
The town of Lewes, Delaware, a five minute shuttle or cab ride from the ferry terminal is a walkable smorgasbord of history, eateries, bars and shops. The town was settled by the 17th century Dutch. Their life and times are on display at the colorful Zwaanendael Museum.
Nearby, you'll be able to see the Overfalls Lightship, one of the few remaining lightships that guarded the approaches to coastal harbors and guided ships around the dangerous offshore shoals. Tours are available from spring through early October. When it's sailing from Lewes, the Kalmar Nyckel, a replica of the vessel that carried the Dutch adventurers to Delaware hosts public visits and sailings. You'll find it docked next to the ferry terminal.
LEWES EATERIES AND SIP STOPS
On this trip our lunch stop was the Kindle in the center of town. I tucked into a flavorful 4 ounce filet mignon sandwich without the bread and Kindle fries. The burgers are a robust combination of chuck and short ribs. Salads are colorful and creative. There's indoor and outdoor seating plus a lively locally flavored bar.
The Wharf is a long time Lewes favorite. It rests alongside the fishing charter boat canal with a dynamite nautical view and a ocean fueled menu to fit the mood and vista. Chowder, oysters and freshly plucked-from-the-sea local fin food make for a compelling meal. A large outdoor deck provides a salt water aroma on sunny days and a nautically themed dining room and bar sets the indoor vibe.
The Rose and Crown at the Rodney Hotel wheels out all the British comfy foods that create fall cravings. From pot roast to bangers and mash with a seaward nod to fish and chips, you don't know where to turn first. So simply, think about it while quaffing a pint of nice English Ale or a bit of Irish stout.
ANYTHING ELSE TO DO?
If you find yourself in a shopping mood, pick an outlet. Tanger has three in the Rehoboth area. They can be reached by taxi off-season. During warm weather months, the ferry terminal shuttle makes the outlet loop.
THE FERRY TERMINALS
Returning to the Lewes Ferry Terminal, if the weather is sunny and nice and you have time to wait for the boat, check out "On The Rocks". It's a terminal Tiki bar with waterside umbrella shaded tables and resort feel. Locals stop by even when they aren't traveling.
PARKING
There's an abundance of free parking in well lighted and patrolled lots right in front of the terminals on both the Cape May and Lewes sides.
TIPS:
Dress for the weather, but it's best in layers. Depending on wind and sunshine you might have a tropical feel for part of the voyage and a chill on another. Carry sun screen. You'll need it for deck lounging. Check for special events and pricing. The terminal and ferry staff are chatty, friendly and more than willing to help.
Enjoy!
