Getaway Guide To A Connecticut Caper
It was a "Buddy Getaway" - maybe to recapture a bit of youth. The destination was New London, Connecticut where 63 years ago I earned my Coast Guard Petty Officer's "Crow" and former KYW reporter Richard Maloney, several years later pinned on his submariner "Dolphins." His Sub base was still there, my Coast Guard schools are gone. The population has grown and what was strictly a service town is now a magnet for summer visitors. And for good reason. The region has attractions galore and at its heart is a museum village that takes us back to the days of rugged whalers, the wooden ships that became their environment and the families that waited years for their return. Let's start there. -- Jay Lloyd.
MYSTIC SEAPORT
Mystic, CT
Stepping into the Mystic Seaport is a passage in time. The masts of the 140 year old whaling ship, Charles W. Morgan reach for the sky and the sounds of a whaler being readied for sea surrounds a visitor. The village that adjoins the docks contain all the elements necessary to support this engine of 19th century American industry - a shipyard, cooperage, chandler, food and clothing supply shops. But crossing the gangway of the Morgan to watch the sails fall from their yards to catch the wind and see the constricted living and storage space below deck is a vision of a rough-life past that has attained glamour in the modern telling of whaler's yarns. Classic sailing vessels and more recent working boats round out the exhibits. Sail and row boat rentals, a cruise on a New England cat boat or the Seaport launch puts you on the Mystic River, a pathway to Long Island Sound and the Sea. Seaport adult admission is: $26. Youngsters pay $17. Navigate here for all available discounts and pricing: www.mysticseaport.org/visit/plan-your-visit/hours-tickets/
NAUTILUS MUSEUM
Groton, CT
America's first nuclear powered submarine is the centerpiece of a dynamic museum dedicated to the Navy's "Silent Service". The Nautilus first set sail from this port in 1954. It's now back home in Groton and is open for riveting tours that explore life underwater, often months at a time for the nation's first nuclear sailors. The Nautilus is close to the fabled Electric Boat Yard on the Thames River where she was built, and the submarine base where generations of submariners trained. Admission and parking are free.
U.S. COAST GUARD ACADEMY
New London, CT
The smallest of the nation's service academies is planted on a picturesque bluff overlooking the Thames River. During a recent Philadelphia visit, Coast Guard Commandant, Adm. Paul Zukunft pointed out that women represent more than 35 per cent of the newest class of cadets. Tours of the academy are available and include America's Tall ship, The Eagle (when not on a summer cruise) and the Coast Guard Museum that tells the story of our oldest seagoing service through art and artifacts. Here's where to learn about academy tours: www.uscga.edu/campus2.aspx?id=47
EATERIES AND SIPPERIES
Seafood is the native harvest in the heart of an American fishery. You'll see the boats arriving at all hours with the fresh catch. Here are some restaurants and their bars that I've tried, thoroughly enjoyed and will re-visit. The view and atmosphere are as rewarding as the plates.
S&P OYSTER COMPANY
Mystic, CT
Indoor and outdoor seating offer an expansive view of the water traffic on the Mystic River and the nearby Mystic Seaport. There are upscale takes on classic fin food and shellfish. Oysters here are the anchors. You can sip and slurp the day away. Or follow my wake through a dish of grilled scallops and shrimp. Then come back for a packed lobster roll.
ABBOTT'S LOBSTER IN THE ROUGH
Noank, CT
On the banks of the Mystic River, Abbott's is all about lobsters and informality. It's not unusual to find 10 pounders on the lobster board. Five pounders are always available. You read the board, head for the "Order" window, choose from solo items or dinners and then park on a tent covered picnic bench or at a sun drenched waterside table and wait for your number to be called. All lobsters are cooked to order. Not a lobster fan? They serve clams, oysters, mussels, chowder - even roast chicken for the landlubbers in the crowd. It's a BYOB, so carry your own beer and wine.
BREAKWATER
Stonington, CT
A harbor dotted with moored sailboats and a view of nearby islands is the backdrop for raw bar delicacies and drinks at the Breakwater, a waterfront eatery and bar in Stonington, Connecticut. Apart from the view and the oysters, the Breakwater wins my personal Chowder Marathon. Creamy and loaded with clams, it takes the ribbon among 3 I sampled on this latest trip.
BOAT RIDE
If you want to see more of the area from the water side, the 81 foot Schooner Argia sails from the Mystic docks near the Seaport Museum. For details on the cruise, see last week's article on summer boat rides. philadelphia.cbslocal.com/top-lists/getaway-guide-to-summer-boat-rides/
STAY
Major hotels chains have a presence in and around Groton. Google your own favorite. We chose the Hampton Inn on route 20 with quick access to I-95 for location, reasonable rates and comfortable rooms. The snack packs for the road when we checked out were an unexpected bonus.
GETTING THERE:
The New London area is a straight shot up I-95. But the route takes you over the often congested approach to the George Washington Bridge and the frequently crawling Cross-Bronx Expressway.
As an alternate work your way to I-78 east and pick up I-287 north to I-84 east. Cross the Tappen Zee Bridge and continue to I-95 north, bypassing New York City.
Enjoy!
