Getaway Guide: Basin Harbor, VT
Paddle a kayak out of a snug cove onto the waters of Lake Champlain and find an eye-filling panorama. The Green Mountains of Vermont to the east, the rugged Adirondacks of New York to the west, and the broad, shimmering expanse of a fabled waterway reaching from Canada to Lake George. That's Basin Harbor in Vermont. So, what's to do and see, eat and drink? Let's talk. – Jay Lloyd
BASIN HARBOR CLUB
4800 Basin Harbor Rd.
Vergennes, VT 05491
http://basinharbor.com
It's a family thing. If you can corral Bob Beach as he strolls the property from harbor to airport, the golf course and the gardens, he'll tell you how his family tended the land here for nearly a century-and-a-half. He'll talk about the history of Lake Champlain as the main passageway between mountain ranges for Native Americans and the earliest French and British settlers. He's the fourth generation to cultivate the resort; the fifth is already at work. He calls it, "A resort based on active tranquility."
WATER SPORTS
A key component of the activity is on the water. The picturesque harbor is the backdrop for frequent weddings. Within the banks is an array of boats to borrow or rent. Kayaks, small power craft, rowing punts, canoes, even sailboats. The fishing in this fresh water lake is impressive, and a cruise boat takes daily tours that can include an underwater view of sunken wrecks. A small beach and swimming area is a favorite with the kids, and they don't have to leave the beach to grab a snack.
GOLF
Playing off the back tees offer 6,500 yards of gentle terrain over an 18 hole, par 72 course. It combines challenging greens and ego-boosting fairways in an ecologically protected setting. The course features a pro shop, practice facilities and a driving range. Two eateries can serve as your 19th hole stop. "Play-and-Stay" packages ring in at a starting price of $300 a night. That includes accommodations and breakfast for two along with unlimited golf.
DINING
On a recent visit, we split lunch and dinner options between the formal main dining room and the rustic Red Mill Inn, a foodie's version of a mountain pub.
MAIN DINING ROOM
Menus change frequently but Executive Chef Christian Kruse creates his choices around fresh, local produce and meats. The resort boasts its own farm and resident farmer. The nightly menus are balanced between seafood, poultry, and red meats that usually include one or more beef, lamb and pork dishes. Appetizers and cheese plates with a before dinner cocktail set the tone, and uniquely created desserts are a reason to linger. The strawberry shortcake with the freshest berries and house whipped cream is now fixed in my memory bank. What better reason to return?
RED MILL INN
The Red Mill Inn, which has become a popular tavern, started public life as an after work spot for resort staff and friends to wind down, but it turned into the fun place to be. It wasn't long before guests were being lured over by the sound of music and laughter. Now, it's the spot to grab a drink after a round of golf, have a great sit-down lunch in a rustic setting or stroll over for music and a beer in the late night hours. So what do we eat? C'mon -- it's Vermont! You can't miss with a uniquely crafted grilled cheese. The lamb burgers were perfect, and with Canada and Maine close at hand, give the lobster roll a shot, too. By the way, try a Vermont brewed beer. You'll like it.
ACCOMMODATIONS
There are rooms at the lodge. But the cottages, 75 of them, are the way to go. Many are right on the lake and offer dramatic sunset views from private patios in a wooded setting. Ours had two bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen, a dining area and a bath. It's unlikely you'll be cooking anything unless you land a whopper of a fish, but the refrigerator is handy to park any leftovers that are too good to leave behind. Rates vary by accommodations, season, meal plans or activity packages, but they start at about $220 a night for two people.
GETTING THERE
Good news for private pilots: Basin Harbor has an airstrip on the property.
By car: Depending on where you live, access Route 287 North via Route 78 or 202. Take 287 to the New York Thruway (Route 87). Take exit 20 and turn left onto Route 9. Turn right onto NY Route 149. Go 11 miles and turn left onto Route 4. After you cross into Vermont, take exit 2 and turn left onto Route 22A North to Vergennes. When you pass the cemetery in Vergennes, turn left onto Panton Rd. and go 1.5 miles. Turn right onto Basin Harbor Rd. Six more miles and you're there.
Tip: There's a lot to see and do between here and there, so we broke up the trip from the Philadelphia suburbs with a stop at Saratoga Springs. On the return, we made stops at Lake George and Hyde Park in New York.
Enjoy.
