By Glen Macnow

Pub & Kitchen, 1946 Lombard

We put Pub & Kitchen on our list of “must-have” meatballs because a few years back we had a phenomenal dish of rabbit meatballs here and – truth be told – after a steady diet of beef, veal and pork, we were looking for something completely different.

Alas, when we showed up, the rabbit has hopped away. No longer on the menu. We were about to move on when we saw bunny had been replaced by pig. So we ordered “Pork Meatballs,” a $20 main course, along with one of the many interesting beers that make up the “Pub” part of Pub & Kitchen.

The dish came with six meatballs swimming in a pool of creamy polenta, accompanied by smoked ricotta and grilled Vidalia onions. Best way to describe them? Nice comfort food, the balls offering a buttery texture, enhanced by the polenta and the tangy sauce. A fine, filling, satisfying dinner.

Pub & Kitchen is a bustling spot at 20th and Lombard, which is to say it’s one of those spots where the philosophy is, the noisier the better. Don’t expect to have an intimate conversation while dining, because the decibel level is deafening. But hey, the bar list is strong, the vibe is fun and the meatballs are above average.

Score: 82/100

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