The Grubhouse: Bacon Cakes $9, Bacon Jalepeno Tater Tots $6, Elvis Melt Sandwich $7
By Glen Macnow
The Grubhouse
2340 S Hemberger St, Philadelphia
This seven-table-plus-counter diner off Passyunk and 23rd is a bacon lover's heaven. They cure their own, and serve it creatively and well-prepared. All in all, a great find for those who find the swine divine.
Let's start with the best item, the Grubhouse Bacon Cakes, which are fluffy pancakes with diced bacon cooked right into the batter, as well as highlighted by thick strips laid on top. It's dusted with powdered sugar, so you get that sweet v. salty thing going. This is not crisp bacon, as I generally prefer, but rather it's tender, almost like an improved version of corned beef hash. Magnificent.
The Bacon Tater Tots are an invention that rivals the chicken wing for fun snack food. It's your basic deep fried Ore-Ida, surrounded by spicy chopped jalapenos and nearly tucked into that homemade bacon. You get a cup of ranch dressing for dipping – but it's better without it.
And then there's the Elvis Melt, a tribute to the King's favorite sandwich – and let's not confuse who really gets to carry the nickname, "The King." Alas, the concoction of peanut butter, banana and bacon on grilled Texas toast sounds better than it tastes. To me, anyway. To you it may sound disgusting. The bacon gets overwhelmed by the peanut butter. And nobody puts bacon in the corner.
One last note: Great job of decorating the joint by hanging photos of famous diner scenes from movies, including Pulp Fiction, When Harry Met Sally, Reservoir Dogs and Big Lebowski.
Scores:
Bacon Cakes: 92/100
Bacon Jalapeno Tater Tots: 84/100
Elvis Melt: 55/100
