Review: Village Whiskey
By Glen Macnow
Price: Village burger, $12
Location: 20th and Sansom
If I am ever convicted of a capital crime and get to order one last meal before lethal injection, chances are I’ll ask for Village Whiskey. A plump burger, fries cooked in duck fat and double-barrel bourbon seem to me the perfect way to go out. And Jose Garces knows how to do it right.
The eight-ounce Village burger is pretty straightforward – sesame roll, tomato, Boston Bibb lettuce, homemade Thousand Island dressing. The Angus beef comes from Maine, I’m told. Maybe they feed those cattle with lobster, because it’s some of the tastiest beef I’ve ever had. The meat is packed loose – you can still see the grinder strands – and that’s always a great sign. The less the meat is handled, the more taste that remains.
My only gripe with Village Whiskey doesn’t involved the burger. The place is tiny and crowded and you’ll be banging elbows with the patrons at the next table. But hey, this is my final meal so I’ll have it in the solitude of my prison cell.
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