Review: Copabanana

By Glen Macnow

Score: 7.3
Price: $8.50
Location: 344 South Street

It's a gimmicky place by my standards, looking like an explosion in Jimmy Buffet's basement. And there's gimmicky nonsense on the menu – French fries splashed with jalapeno or gyro burgers. But the margaritas are excellent and the burgers are well above average.

They're six-and-a-half ounces of fresh ground aged steak trimmings that produce a succulent taste. I salute the chef for being wise enough to pull it off the grill while it was still bursting with juiciness. The Le Bus roll was sweet and soft – actually a little too soft, as it fell apart before we were done. I could have lived with the Miracle Whip-like mayo sauce slathered on my burger, and wish that the waitress had asked.
Copabana offers all sorts of cheeses and sauces and pickling agents, but you'd be wise to avoid that nonsense. It's a fine burger by itself, junking it up is like wearing a polka-dot bowtie with your navy blue suit.

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